With one of Australia’s great architectural reveals as a greeting, Port Phillip Estate promises much. And with new chef Stuart Deller in the kitchen, the food delivers on the pledge, with outstanding ideas wrought into tasty and satisfying dishes. A breathtakingly pretty blue-eye dish almost outdoes the view towards Western Port: classic technique shines through in the golden crisped skin, pearly flesh and shimmering onion consomme, while a meandering eye for local bounty sees samphire and nasturtium scattered over the plate. A duck dish is a similar balance of light and shade, with carved breast blushing over a melange of shredded leg meat, pert peas and sticky jus. Desserts do a clever dance of textures and flavours: a parfait of caramelised white chocolate plays off an almond tuile and frisky fennel sorbet. White tablecloths, weighty cutlery, proper glassware and confident, well-drilled service further signal that this is a classy operation.

And … The cellar door offers bistro lunches from Saturday to Tuesday.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Luxurious.
Best bit The view.
Worst bit With so many wines to try, you'll need a designated driver.