Age has not wearied Silks. More than a decade old, Crown's glamorous Chinese fine diner retains an air of refined exclusion via opulent furnishings, reverential hush and silver service plating. But the arrival of chef Tsang Chiu King, awarded two Michelin stars at Ming Court in Hong Kong, has injected excitement into the menu. Exceptional dim sum sets the standard for dumpling-mad Melbourne - prawn, egg white and dried scallop in translucent wrappers, or duck in wonton 'ravioli' in clearest duck consomme with egg custard. Salt-and-pepper fried oysters, each balanced on an onion ring, fly a flag for fashion, while a platter featuring char siu pork, toffee-skinned roasted duck, braised beef shin and jellyfish tossed with chilli sesame oil demands respect for tradition. Occasionally stratospheric prices don't deliver fireworks - at $65, a prosaic scallop and sea urchin omelette hits the hip pocket hard - but order carefully and Silks will be a high-rolling experience.