Montalto is like a checklist to all the finer things in life, offering a lush dining experience amid a vineyard and kitchen garden landscape punctuated by impressive outdoor sculptures. The restaurant is warm but airy, with bentwood chairs, raw floorboards and expansive windows framing that verdant, hypnotic view. Friendly staff welcome you in with an offer of a cellar door tasting to decide on your dining wine. Start with estate dukkah, olives and olive oil to get a taste of where you are, before moving on to perfectly seared scallops or a riff on a prawn cocktail – a savoury trifle of chilled prawns, diced with cucumber and cress in a shellfish jelly, topped with a firm avocado mousse. Ricotta dumplings are rough-hewn but featherlight, sitting on an autumnal haul of pumpkin, meaty oyster mushrooms and braised kale; while the sweetness of a fillet of snapper is reiterated by its accompanying tomato crayfish fumet and sticky, reduced leeks.

And … Montalto hosts conversations with Australian authors, presented by the Wheeler Centre.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Airy and understated.
Best bit Exploring the estate’s wines, oils and verjuice.
Worst bit Some prices can pinch.