WHERE AND WHAT

Fourteen years young, Donovans is the clubbish beach house, fine-dining restaurant opened by Gail and Kevin Donovan and partners in a former bathing pavilion overlooking the St Kilda foreshore. Detractors point out the relatively simple (yet assured) Italian fare at unabashed mark-ups; however, one of the strengths of this perennially oversubscribed venue is the service, led by floor staff who make diners feel as cosseted as if they really did own a Hamptons beach house.

WHERE TO SIT

It's a no-brainer: everyone is after the window tables and you'll have to book well ahead with that request, be on friendly terms with management or have freakish luck to snare one. But it's no bleak house in the rest of the place, which bucks the minimalist trend by being decked out with striped furnishings, busy decorations, cane chairs and an open fireplace. Think of it as comfortably lush.

WHEN TO GO

As reliable as the sun, Donovans is a seven-day-a-week proposition, with lunch from noon to 3pm and dinner from 6pm. Winter is the time to make the most of the beach views and indulge in a long and leisurely lunch.

DRINK

Big names and boutiques compete for attention on a long, impressive and expensive list. There's also a good selection by the glass.

EAT

Donovans experienced rare change this year when Robert Castellani departed. A big loss has been dealt with well by promoting two long-time sous chefs, Emma D'Alessandro and Adam Draper, who both started as apprentices a decade ago. They chart a familiar course of contemporary Mediterranean flavours: orechiette with duck and porcini ragout, a satisfying piggy assembly of pork belly, fried ear, spicy chipolatas and cotechino and, to finish, the comforting flavours of a spongy golden fig pudding with warm honey custard. And some things are guaranteed to never change: the barbecued Queensland leader prawns, split down the middle and served with plenty of chilli and oregano, are one of several menu constants.

WHO'S THERE

Groups of wine buffs, Asian students playing on iPhones and special-occasion diners trying to wheedle their way to window seats.

WHY BOTHER?

More than the sum of its parts, Donovans is one Melbourne dining experience to tick off your list. Sure it's expensive - but as the song goes, it's the way they make you feel.

40 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, phone 9534 8221.

www.donovanshouse.com.au