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Whether you’re at a table by the window or sunk into a booth, deep blues meet your line of sight, the cerulean sea matched by wallpaper, carpet and leather in various shades of blue.

Let the many European influences in the menu wash over you, as the room’s nautical palette does, because despite Sebastian being named after San Sebastian, it doesn’t always stick to the Spanish script. A dramatically presented whole rock flathead is a detour to France, the accompanying glossy beurre blanc dancing with fines herbes. Rye tartlets of stracciatella and sweet-sour onions hit like French-onion chips.

For purists there are gildas, jamon with melon, txakoli (Basque sparkling wine) and plenty from the charcoal grill, but if you’re willing to expand your horizons – perhaps bypassing Basque cheesecake in favour of an elegant ice-cream sandwich – Sebastian will meet you halfway.