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The main reason people go to an art gallery, let’s face it, is not for the resident restaurant. They go for the art, the exhibitions, the chance to “culture up”. But what if the restaurant were one of the exhibitions? Themed, ever-changing, and with a big name attached?

That’s the thinking behind the Museum of Contemporary Art’s new fourth-floor restaurant, appropriately called Canvas. Melbourne catering ringmaster Bruce Keebaugh of The Big Group was appointed in 2023 to radically change the culinary offerings of the MCA, and he appears to have taken his task seriously.

Keebaugh visited the major galleries of Los Angeles, New York, London, Paris and Milan, only to realise that their hospitality partners were locked in by long operational hours, mandated pricing and lack of creativity – and it showed.

His new business model relies on a two-speed system, with fine dining supported by events. It also relies on a seasonal rotation of “artists”, guest chefs renowned for their skills and talent. That’s where Josh Raine, head chef of Tetsuya’s for six years until its closure in July, comes in.

Tonally, the place is all oatmeal, taupe and putty, so don’t wear a pale linen jacket as I do, or you might fade into the background – as I do.

Once a cafe, the space has been transformed into a cool, blonde, Scandinavian haven, with statement florals against white marble and pale woods. Serried ranks of wine glasses and bottles lead the eye to Circular Quay at one window, and the bridge, the other. Tonally, the place is all oatmeal, taupe and putty, so don’t wear a pale linen jacket as I do, or you might fade into the background – as I do.

You can glimpse Raine in the galley kitchen from your table, as you admire your Sabre cutlery – slim blades and tines, cream handles – and sip a Haiwa Shuzo yuzushu aperitif ($16).

Diners choose either two courses ($85) or three ($105) from a shortish menu. The food is clever, lovely, emblematic of springtime. Original, and yet familiar, framed by the plate and presented with meticulous consistency.

Slabs of light, fluffy focaccia rest on a stone pedestal from Black Blaze, drizzled with coffee-infused oil. Tasmanian white asparagus is teamed with green under a self-saucing, slow-cooked egg and crispy nori; an elegant dish but for the slightly chunky croutons.

Countless tiny pipis stud al dente linguine (a slightly larger portion than most), under a snowy-white dome of roasted parmesan cream, pooling with parsley oil.

Coral trout benefits from being gently cooked in a braisage (shallots, mushrooms, white wine), finished with cream and lemon myrtle. Striped with zucchini and served with a small zucchini flower stuffed with a sweet scallop mousseline, it’s a gentle, dreamy dish.

Mayura Station wagyu beef is tempting, but I want the Instagram lamb – a tailored and trimmed tomahawk-style bone, with a thick round of tender meat. It’s a treat, with mossy wasabi greens and slightly tough daikon in supporting roles.

On the floor, Manuel Palermo and Marcin Duda are anything but beige, bringing energy and humour to the table. And there isn’t a dud label on the brief wine list, from Shaw & Smith’s crisp, grassy sauvignon blanc ($18 glass), to Pio Cesare’s elegant nebbiolo ($24 glass).

A single fleck of gold signals dessert, almost flickering in the light as it crowns the most perfect raspberries, mounded over creme patissiere in a strong and biscuity tart base.

Raine will be in residence until February, so go now, or wait for the next resident chef in March. The new ground-floor MCA Cafe at Tallawoladah is your casual alternative; cosy and colour-coordinated inside, with harbour-facing tables outside. Service there can be slow, but good Single O coffee and ham and three-cheese toasties bring the right cafe vibes.

If you do go to a gallery just for the art, then the MCA’s current Primavera exhibition is an intense delight, highlighting the work of early-career Australian artists. It’s carefully curated, full of elegant surprises and depth of thinking, and worth a visit in its own right. Just like the restaurant.