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Bert’s Bar & Brasserie

Merivale’s northern showpiece.

Tagliolini with lobster.
1 / 8Tagliolini with lobster.supplied
Grilled rib eye.
2 / 8Grilled rib eye.Supplied
The dining room.
3 / 8The dining room. Supplied
The venue has a ’30s feel.
4 / 8The venue has a ’30s feel. Steven Woodburn
Oysters with chardonnay mignonette.
5 / 8Oysters with chardonnay mignonette. James Brickwood
Hand-picked mud crab.
6 / 8Hand-picked mud crab.William Meppem
Spatchcock with poblano pepper.
7 / 8Spatchcock with poblano pepper. James Brickwood
Butter lettuce with lemon dressing.
8 / 8Butter lettuce with lemon dressing.James Brickwood

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Contemporary$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning HeraldThe Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

A visit to the lush Newport Arms feels like you’ve escaped the city. That feeling imbues the sprawling pub’s upmarket restaurant, Bert’s, with a carefree long lunching aura that’s enhanced by the kind of attention and service we’ve come to expect of Merivale venues at this price point.

Start with hand-filleted anchovies that come splashed with lemon-thyme oil alongside warm fried bread that’s crowned with the fish bones, fried crisp and perfectly salty (with a glass of Chablis, it’s the bar snack you never knew you needed).

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Then follow with grilled whole flounder or John dory (filleted tableside) from the fish-on-ice display, to go with an array of sides: fries, of course, and maybe crisp Brussels sprouts sloshed with vincotto.

Time your visit so you can retire to the plush lounges for rum baba as the sun sets – your dessert flambeed for a dramatic ending.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/bert-s-bar-and-brasserie-20240204-p5f28w.html