Ribbons of melon, shreds of buffalo mozzarella, a splash of zingy salsa verde - combined, they're a simple, superb dish, its success dependent on spanking-fresh produce handled with care, imagination and experience. Sometimes that's all it takes, as with a main of expertly cooked mulloway fillet, rubbed with tapenade and served alongside zesty peperonata, blistered cherry tomatoes and lightly wilted spinach. But there's technique here too, in spades. You might find it in a special of duck tortellini, tender rounds of pasta in rich, light, verjuice-scented sauce. Or in a deceptively straightforward dessert of roasted fig, smooth yoghurt sorbet and trembling panna cotta flavoured with local honey. The restaurant has bare tables and exposed brick walls, good table napkins and heavy cutlery. Framed botanical drawings remind diners of the owner's kitchen vegetable garden in nearby Malmsbury: the bowl of vegetables included in main course prices comes from there. The menu changes almost daily and service is as assured as the cooking.