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For decades, having a sunset cold one at Marrickville Golf Club’s clubhouse, ringed by rolling green views, flying bats above and golden sunlight on the Cooks River, has been an inner west tradition of semi-secret proportions.

Down a curvy driveway, beside ducks in a water hole and resplendent gum and fig trees, the 82-year-old club’s spacious, wide-windowed building offers classic serenity, mateship for all-ages and a welcoming bar and bistro area.

In September, it added fine-dining chefs Dave Moran and Josh McPhee, founders of Dulwich Hill’s The General, into the kitchen.

Despite barely an advertisement about their arrival, locals have flocked.

Drawn by faith in the General’s finely tuned fare and word-of-mouth buzz, they are revelling in house-made hummus with dukkah, buxom burrata with silky peperonata, basil oil and smoked salt and 18-hour braised beef brisket lasagna, lush with ricotta, fresh pasta and an excellently crispy cheesy top.

Or hand-rolled potato gnocchi, fat and golden amidst plump enoki mushrooms and baby spinach; sparky southern fried chicken flocked with spicy popcorn and chipotle aoli dipping sauce, and steak frites, a menu star amalgamating 250g scotch fillet, cafe de Paris butter and a rich and generous red wine jus.

It is food that makes you grip a nearby diner’s sleeve in excitement. And then hope they have not wolfed down all the olive oil and rosemary foccacia, or the San Daniele 18-month aged prosciutto and pickled peppers or the ancient grains salad, a favourite from the General made with quinoa, lentils, brown rice, cucumber, coriander, mint and pomegranate molasses.

Today, Moran is visible in the kitchen, partly because he and McPhee have knocked down a wall, reconfigured the prep and cooking set-up and installed a marble-top serving area under glowing lamps.

Having stopped the dinner service at the General in 2018 to get a better work-life balance, their ambling hours on Marrickville’s golf course led to the opportunity to take over the clubhouse bistro.

Moran says their concept is simple.

“I’ve got two young kids and so does Josh,” he says. “When we go out, it’s to a place that’s catering for young families. That’s what we’re doing here. It’s nice, simple, stripped-back food that’s also for everyone who comes to the club. There’s also an element of wanting dishes to appear understated on the menu but then really blowing people’s minds when they eat it.”

This strategy is instantly evident. From the chicken pie, made with sherry, mushrooms, parmesan and bacon, to the luscious chilli prawn linguine, the four burgers (with house-minced beef patty, corn fritters, fried or peri chicken) or even the kids’ menu of chicken nuggets, spaghetti bolognaise, grilled chicken or cheeseburger, each dish that arrives thrills.

Each main comes with shoestring fries and an iceberg, cucumber, cherry tomato salad with buttermilk dressing, the portions are generous and staff, led by Moran’s sister and general manager at the General, are cheery and efficient.

“As we’ve gotten older, we’ve thought more simply and holistically about how we want the kitchen to run,” Moran says. “We’ve considered how we can make the food as good as possible, still make money and make sure it’s creating value for the customer.

“Plus, how do we not kill ourselves in the process with working 18 hours a day.”

So far, they’ve been putting in the extra hours as Wharf St Kitchen takes off. They’ve brought back The General’s taco special, a $20 Friday night offer of three tacos (pork, spicy chicken, corn fritters or brisket), and their famous margarita recipe is now at the bar.

There are plans to extend outdoor eating, turn the putting green out front into a kids’ golfing station and McPhee is about to debut desserts.

And all within the verdant beauty and low-key vibes of a clubhouse perfect for old-timers on the balcony, families and friends hububbing and kids rolling around on the grass in the fresh air.

“When you come down here you go, ‘How is this in the middle of Marrickville?’” Moran says. “It’s a hidden little gem in a perfect spot for a nice cold bevy and, we hope, a very good bite to eat.”