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Etta is the embodiment of great Melbourne dining: ultra-personal service and smart, modern cooking unbound by stuffy tradition. Owner Hannah Green injects infectious enthusiasm into the room and new chef Lorcan Kan unspools flavours from his Chinese-Malaysian heritage, sometimes in mind-bending ways.

Prawn skewers bathe in a sunny kaleidoscope of mango hot sauce and mandarin yuzu kosho. Smoked duck leg in Malaysian-style red curry gets beguiling lushness from rambutan, the lychee-like tropical fruit.

Chilli oil parfait, Kan’s signature dessert, ricochets your tastebuds from fairy floss to numbing hot pot to ice-cream at the beach. Its Korean chilli flakes and Sichuan peppercorns deliver gingery spice, offset by cooling lychee sorbet and tiny cubes of melon. Ashley Boburka’s wine list is a standout, too. You could spend weeks with the champagne section alone.