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What does it feel like when one of Australia’s most prolific and enduring Greek chefs opens a large, sunny restaurant in a Novotel hotel overlooking sparkling blue waters? It feels like a homecoming, with Ammos the perfect platform for Peter Conistis’ effortless take on Grecian favourites.

The room has the perfect aspect for the easy, breezy menu, executed by James Roberts – and that’s even before you spy the cabanas by the pool, the little ouzo trolley or the chalk-white Greek cheeses.

Fill up on vibrant dips, flatbreads, crunchy horiatiki salad and stuffed vegetables, but leave room for lamb – cooked slow in the wood-fired oven, or sizzling fast on the grill – and a glorious shellfish saganaki richly sauced with tomatoes and feta. Time for a mastic Greek ice-cream and a stroll along the beach.

Mykonos and Santorini may be fabulous, but we have Brighton-Le-Sands.