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The four kitchens at Woodcut set the stage for a theatrical performance. On cue, fire, steam, smoke and ice are applied to superlative produce, from clover-fed O’Connor beef to Skull Island tiger prawns.

It’s easy to pick the diva dishes: lipstick peppers in red-pepper oil, brick chicken with barberries and grapes, and a mighty Hasselback potato wallowing in sweet onion cream.

But new dishes from celebrated chef Ross Lusted and head chef Daniel Leyva deserve the spotlight as well, such as autumn vegetables (grilled, pickled, fermented and fresh); grilled halloumi with Malfroy’s Gold honey and lush, seedy figs; and a four-chop rack of savoury, fat-fringed Margra lamb.

Couples are likely to be seated at one of the kitchen counters – speak up if you’d prefer a table. The broad terrace is dreamy in summer, and the dazzling high-energy room gets a bit more Las Vegas after 9pm.