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Chiswick’s glasshouse-style dining room is objectively beautiful: soumak rugs, cascading ferns and views to an immaculate lawn and vegetable garden are just part of the reason it’s a fail-safe for Mother’s Day lunches.

Matt Moran’s team still roasts a whole chook with the best of them, but the newer menu items are worth your long-lunch money too, such as witlof cradling a remoulade-ish mix of apple and spanner crab; honey-drenched baked halloumi textured with fennel seeds and batons of nashi; and a meaty assiette of dry-aged duck enhanced with tart blood-plum sauce (a little brik-pastry parcel of confit duck under wilted radicchio is a nice surprise on the same plate).

The compact, diverse wine list contains plenty of gems, and if you want to drink Sauternes in the sun with strawberry pudding, a seat by the French windows is the place.