While some Sydney venues flash a leg, scream 'look at me' or seduce with sweeping water views, this low-key stalwart quietly serves up a menu of well-prepared European bistro staples that instantly seduces. Silky ribbons of pappardelle pasta weave through slow-braised lamb shoulder, slivers of portobello mushroom and olives; while plump scallops are cleverly teamed with grainy slabs of house-made venison morcilla (blood sausage) plus the contrasting charms of sweet peppers and a tangy mojo verde. A blushingly pink Cape Grim sirloin is boldly buttered up cafe de Paris-style, and a crisp confit duck leg comes with good braised red cabbage, walnuts and slightly too-sweet glazed turnips. Time, then, for a glass of sticky and the sweet, tart and crunchy charms of Portuguese caramel semifreddo, stewed blood plums and honeycomb. Throw in low lighting, a timeless, woody feel and an overwhelming sense of hospitality, and you have one of this city's most civilised dining experiences.