It may have been around since 1995, yet Punch Lane still feels like a Melbourne insider's secret bolthole. It steadfastly goes about the business of satiating pre- and post-theatre crowds and after-work revellers, while still providing a civilised environment for a more leisurely meal. Burnished timber, shelves of wine and red leather tub chairs from the long-gone Southern Cross Hotel create a clubby air - but one you'd be happy to join. The menu is concise but flexible. Go the entree-main-dessert route, if you wish, or share things like lime-cured kingfish and shiitake mushrooms scattered over rice, and wagyu carpaccio with the yin-yang of cherries and tiny eggplant croquettes. Mains such as roasted snapper grounded with grilled corn and green tomato compote can be scaled back to entrees, further expanding the options. And while it is tempting to sink a spoon into ganache with marmalade and white chocolate ice-cream, the wine and cheese lists reward exploration.