Noir is dark, with fir-green walls and dimmed lighting, but not black as its name suggests, with a generous heart in the kitchen. The mood is easygoing, with bare tables and timber floors, but the linen napkins and good glassware are indications of a meal to be taken seriously. The large handwritten menu offers broad choice - more than you may expect from a small restaurant. Think traditional and add some smart touches: kingfish ceviche slices dusted with lemon and parsley resting on a rouille dressing, or roast duck breast and confit leg with just-soft-enough brussels sprouts, chestnuts and a celeriac puree. A roast rack of lamb comes with a pressed shoulder of lamb (which may be salty) and fondant potatoes. Finish with cheese, or a densely smooth orange creme caramel, lifted by poached rhubarb and basil shoots. Persuade the whole table to opt for the tasting menu ($80 a person). Waitstaff are well informed and attentive.