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After 17 years on Lygon Street, Rumi has relocated to the base of a new build. The space is bigger, brighter and far more modern than the original but favourite dishes remain.

The quail kabobs are better than ever, marinated in saffron and lacquered with verjus and grape molasses. Lamb shoulder is a glorious, tender hunk of meat that could easily feed a whole table with a salad or two on the side, and a simple dish of apricots with labne and honey is one of the city’s great desserts.

There’s reason to branch out though. Half a barbecue chicken comes with rose harissa and warrigal greens. Barramundi arrives with Turkish chilli, tahini and walnuts. One of the most exciting developments is the 100-strong bottle list, which includes a juicy, extremely food-friendly Lebanese pet nat.