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Chef Rob Kabboord, formerly of three-hatted Quay in Sydney, joined the well-oiled team from Daylesford’s popular Cliffy’s Emporium last spring to take on this grand two-storey hotel in the heart of town.

Expect bar snacks like Dutch bitterballen and high-level but honest pub classics such as a juicy club sandwich, crumbed lamb brains, or Scotch fillet steak frites with creamy tarragon dressing. The old Beppe woodfire oven is churning out pizzas you can pick up via the drive-through.

Now all forest green and dark timber panelling, you can dine in the cafe-curtained bistro, drink a pint of Carlton Draught or Guinness in the expanded public bar, or get takeaway.