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Cape hides within a resort busy with conference delegates and golfers. Slide onto a turquoise velvet banquette for glimpses of Bass Strait or grab a high stool to watch chefs in the open kitchen tweezering the many elements of artistic dishes.

John dory shares a plate with hand-rolled macaroni, mussels and mushrooms, topped with an artichoke crisp and a sprig of samphire. Pink lamb is served two ways: as a herb-crusted slab and shredded in a tiny pastry shell crowned with buttons of black garlic paste.

A chocolate and salted caramel dessert might take the “more is more” concept a bit far, but that’s forgiven after interactions with knowledgeable staff who enthusiastically share opinions about the local-meets global range of wines.