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Operated by the Morris family, who have owned the land for 15 years, Barragunda’s 400 hectares provide chef Simone Watts (ex-Coda, MoMo) with the ingredients for garden-led snacks: baby vegetables with a decadently creamy sabayon made from leek tops; a danish, its golden pastry fantastically lacquered and stretchy, filled with sweet and smoked eggplant and black garlic; a kofta ball made from smoked hogget.

It’s an environmental project in more than one way – kitchen and restaurant waste is composted, plastics are avoided, and profits are redirected to the family foundation to support innovation and systemic change in Australia’s food systems.

Small merguez sausages made with the estate’s lamb, before smoked over a large wood-fired hearth shipped from the celebrated Adelaide Hills restaurant The Summertown Aristologist.

Even the cocktails are conceived of with the produce on hand as inspiration, including an appletini made with six of the estate’s dozens of apple varieties. The 40-seat dining room gives a strong sense of the natural world with its pitched roof of spotted gum, terracotta tiles and earthenware plates.