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Kabul Social is a taste of Afghanistan in the heart of Sydney

Lee Tran Lam
Lee Tran Lam

Kabul Social brings Afghan cuisine and a commitment to social justice to the Wynyard Station locale.
Kabul Social brings Afghan cuisine and a commitment to social justice to the Wynyard Station locale.Oscar Colman

Asian

An outpost of Afghanistan isn't something you'd expect near Wynyard Station, but Kabul Social will command your attention – even if you're running for your train.

This CBD canteen is decorated with lavish patterns, including an elaborate design used in Afghan wedding fabric.

And the eatery's royal blue and honeyed gold exterior would inspire the most time-poor commuter to stop by its entrance – conveniently allowing them to read Kabul Social's mission statement, displayed nearby: "Every meal purchased here will see two meals donated to communities in need. One in Afghanistan and one in Australia."

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Go-to dish: Aushak dumplings, carefully pleated and topped with lentils warmed in a spiced tomato sauce.
Go-to dish: Aushak dumplings, carefully pleated and topped with lentils warmed in a spiced tomato sauce.Kitti Gould

Kabul Social is run by Shaun Christie-David and Plate It Forward, the social enterprise behind Enmore's Colombo Social, another community-aiding venue. Like its predecessor, this canteen creates work opportunities for refugees.

It's become an accidental embassy, too, drawing Afghan community leaders, families and, recently, a group of 22 refugees during an educational excursion. "People say, this is like Kabul," Christie-David tells us.

The interiors create that atmosphere, with one staff member ensuring the lampshades reflect her homeland. ("Her brother designs the exact same light back in Afghanistan," the restaurateur says).

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Loaded box with maash palaw (rice), charcoal chicken, lamb shoulder and red chilli chutney.
Loaded box with maash palaw (rice), charcoal chicken, lamb shoulder and red chilli chutney.Oscar Colman

Then there's the menu, which features aushak, intricate dumplings typically served at weddings and other special occasions.

The labour-intensive process is a reminder of why they're normally saved for ceremonial events.

"We probably have two women on it all day, from start to finish," Christie-David says. The recipe comes from head chef Roya, who hand rolls many dumplings herself.

Kabul burger with fried eggplant.
Kabul burger with fried eggplant.Oscar Colman
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Filled with garlic chives, tightened with a precise braid and flavoured with a spiced tomato and lentil sauce, they're a Kabul Social highlight (as are the lamb mantu dumplings).

Then there are the Kabuli burgers, a popular street food in Afghanistan and neighbouring Pakistan.

Despite their name, they're more like flatbread parcels of pickled onions, salad and chips spiced with house-blended char masala – packed with your choice of charcoal chicken, lamb kebab patties, roasted pumpkin or fried eggplant (borani banjan).

Loaded box with fries, eggplant, mint yoghurt and green chutney.
Loaded box with fries, eggplant, mint yoghurt and green chutney.Oscar Colman

Or you can customise a "loaded box" with the aforementioned proteins and vegetables (my pick: the tomato-stewed eggplant, with its golden-crisp edges and soft, near-caramelised centre).

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For the foundation, select Kabuli salad, spiced fries, Afghan bread or maash palaw grains, then top everything with Afghan mint yoghurt or the zing of green or red chilli chutney.

Whether you opt for burgers or loaded boxes, you'll want some saj bread, which you'll see Kabul Social's workers prepping in the kitchen.

The dough's leopard-spotted finish is thanks to chief baker Yakut, who shapes the saj with a hand-made pillow, carefully producing 200-300 pieces of bread for the hot plate.

Cooking classes and degustation events can be arranged through Plate It Forward.
Cooking classes and degustation events can be arranged through Plate It Forward.Oscar Colman

Christie-David recalls the time she arrived in the kitchen after holding her bucket of dough for an hour on the train. "She calls it a baby."

For Afghan women forced to flee their homeland after the Taliban upended their lives, Kabul Social is a beacon – for staff in the kitchen and diners who seek solace in the menu's familiar flavours.

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And if you've never tried aushak, borani banjan or Kabuli burgers before, you'll find this space welcoming, too. Add the cloves and cinnamon in the char masala and the chilli-turmeric hint in the dumpling sauce, and Kabul Social leaves you feeling warm in every meaningful way.

Mantu dumplings.
Mantu dumplings.Kitti Gould

The low-down

Vibe This refugee-run canteen is a a celebration of Afghan culture and resilience. The fact it's funded 12,000 meals to help feed Afghans here and abroad (through Plate It Forward and Mahboba's Promise) is another reason to order more aushak, mantu and Kabuli burgers wrapped in house-made saj bread.

Insta-worthy dish The aushak dumplings, carefully pleated and topped with lentils warmed in a spiced tomato sauce.

Cost (average cost for two) About $40, plus drinks.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/kabul-social-review-20221122-h281p0.html