Celeriac, parsnips, fennel and Brussels sprouts start to come into their own in these cooler months. I also love fresh horseradish, with its sublime peppery heat, at this time of year. Horseradish can be hard to come by (don’t be tempted to use a substitute), so it’s totally optional in this dish, which is already bursting with flavour from the chilli maple dressing and tofu and peanut “mayonnaise”.

This recipe makes twice as much “mayo” than is needed for the salad, but it’s a staple in my house, so I always make extra. I generally use it to dress shaved raw vegetable slaws – cabbage, carrots, beetroot, kohlrabi, radishes etc – adding some chilli and peanuts and maybe some sesame or poppy seeds, too. It will keep for about a week in an airtight jar in the fridge.