Strip the tough membrane from the beef cheeks. The technique is the same as for skinning a fish fillet. Slip a sharp knife between the membrane and the flesh, hold the membrane tightly with one hand, and zigzag the knife close to the chopping board and along the beef cheek. Discard the membrane.

Place skinned cheeks in a bowl and add all the marinade ingredients. Stir to mix, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Next day, place a colander over a large bowl and tip the meat and marinade into the colander. Allow to drain.

Extract the cheeks and the lardons and pat dry on layers of kitchen paper. Discard the vegetables.

Heat one-third of the oil in a heavy-based pan and seal the cheeks in batches. When well coloured on both sides, add a splash of brandy, tip the pan to light the brandy and turn the meat. Transfer to a cast-iron casserole. Continue until all meat is browned and flamed. Brown the lardons and transfer to the casserole.

Tip the strained wine into the pan and let it boil to reduce. Tip into the casserole.

Preheat oven to 140C. Add the vegetable chunks, pepper and enough veal stock to barely cover. Cover with a doubled piece of baking paper and the lid and cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Allow to cool.

Spoon off fat. Reheat casserole gently. If sauce is too thin, pour it off and boil fast in a separate pan, skimming the froth that rises. Return cleaned sauce to meat, stir to mix and serve.

Mashed potatoes is a perfect accompaniment.

This recipe features in Winter which is available now in all good bookstores RRP $34.95. To order direct call 1300 656 059 or visit www.smh.com.au/store