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The lack of Hunter Valley spots where you can pop in for a quick pasta or pizza has long been a gripe of Good Food Guide editors, so kudos to Richie Harkham for answering the call in wine country.

The natural winemaker recently launched a spacious dining room at his cellar door, and locals are genuinely thrilled to have a schnitzel option aside from what’s currently on offer in the area. It’s a veal cotoletta, to be precise, juicy and crunchy in all the right places under a blizzard of capers and parmesan.

Lasagne is nicely rich and meaty, ultra-smooth chicken liver parfait is cut through with Italian mustard fruits, and calamari fritti is appropriately crisp (not to mention terrific with a negroni).

We’re expecting more good times and drinks in summer, kicking back and watching the sunset with a bowl of fried olives stuffed with goat’s cheese and Harkham’s crackerjack semillon.