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The charred edges of this restaurant’s business card hint at a fiery edge and sure enough, diners are greeted with the smell of a campfire in the bush, with sparks rising from the coals in the hectic, wood-powered kitchen.

Just-warm oysters, plump with salty juices, rest on a tangle of seaweed, and fire-licked kangaroo skewers trail ribbons of smoke to the bare wooden tables as the five-course menu gets underway.

Lennox Hastie’s Firedoor isn’t technically a steakhouse, with the only steaks served as nightly specials for an additional cost. Instead, this is fine dining by fire, with a mesmerising flow of char, smoke and sizzle amping up luxury produce such as Chris Bolton’s coral trout – the skin crisp like bacon – and pale pink Bundarra pork, fringed with salty crackling.

For total immersion, request a seat at the counter: front-row seats at the best barbie in town.