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As a restaurant accessible only by boat or seaplane, Berowra Waters Inn can’t help but be special. And sitting at a leather-bound table by the rippled olive-green Hawkesbury River, fringed by steep wooded cliffs, is not the worst way to spend a day.

The six-course tasting menu from owner-chef Brian Geraghty proceeds at a leisurely pace, with striking flavour notes that increasingly reflect the landscape. There’s the tang of Davidson’s plum with chicken liver parfait in a crisp pink macaron; and the height of house-made banksia vinegar with a serene tranche of bonito.

Tasmanian pinot noir from the proudly all-Australian wine list meets its perfect match with precision-cooked duckling and duck sausage in wine-dark cherry jus.

Noted pastry chef Lauren Eldridge may have moved on, but an elegant layering of mango over ice-cream in vibrant blueberry syrup is still a grown-up pleasure that adds to the sense of specialness.