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It’s hard to pull off, being a retreat restaurant. Do you prioritise guests shelling out for a suite or the public, even if the snaking drive up to Spicers Sangoma means visitors are few and far between? Do you go for comfort, or innovation?

The answer, Amara reckons, is to hedge your bets. The restaurant runs three distinct tasting menus, with guests offered an abridged menu at lunchtime, while visitors are all-in for five courses. Whatever the day, the hits hit hard: crisped kipfler skins piped full of potato mousse dredged in smoked cheddar; a puck of crumbed greens scattered with nutritional yeast; beef rump cap grilled to just past rare, with honey-glazed carrot for interest.

A little safe? Sure, but this is proper cooking backed by charming service and premium pours by the glass. And with that view, and a room filled with luxe touches? Wins all round.