Ocha pioneered modern-Asian fusion in Melbourne so successfully that 19 years and one relocation later, there are dishes that couldn't leave the upmarket Japan-influenced menu without the risk of regulars rioting. Golden, golfball-sized prawn dumplings with green-tea salt are one such item, scallops on the shell with a dab of hollandaise are another. They're hits for good reason, but if the better staff steer you towards wonderful specials, submit, perhaps, to elegant oxtail soup; cool, thinly sliced pork neck with perky ponzu dressing; or calamari stir-fried with precisely trimmed asparagus. The sushi is reliably pristine, the degustation still a winner. Ocha may not be the innovator it once was, but is still its discerning neighbourhood's big-night-out spot, with mod display-home-style decor, and it knows its clientele and delivers for them. Finish with sticky toffee pud or a spectacular banana fritter, cheeky reminders of just how good old favourites can be.