Cumulus Inc hit the ground running in 2008 and immediately set the bar higher for Melbourne. The all-day, late-night 'eating house and bar' has spawned plenty of imitators but few come within touching distance of the elan of the gallery-like space, and the unique yet approachable food of Andrew McConnell. His menu works for dilettantes - fried mussels on a toasty blanket slathered with curried corn puree, or a magnificent charcuterie selection - but equally accommodates the committed diner. Grilled chicken hearts, their meatiness countered by verjuice and pickled rhubarb, is typical of the risk-taking elegance; clams with chickpeas and shreds of jamon in creamy sauce displays a recurring Iberian inflection, while the lamb shoulder for two has a cult following. To finish, rum baba in a custard moat, a bottle of Kahlua to add at will, takes a classic for a spin. Waiters remain the warm heart of a fabulous enterprise.