Tiny tables in this modern double-fronted restaurant are constantly rearranged, Tetris-like, to accommodate the surging hordes. Naan is served dripping with butter to scoop up any number of thick, thin and creamy curries made with whole spices, and all can be ordered 'Aussie-hot' or 'Indian-hot'. Nutty lemon rice is dotted with mustard seeds, and perfectly complements a spicy saag paneer with strips of fresh ginger. Dhal makhani has a depth that can only be achieved from 20 hours of cooking. The excellent spectrum of chutneys and pickles ranges from the explosive Lausan Ki (chilli and garlic) to a sweet tamarind.