NewsBite

Advertisement

Clever Aussie flavours make this ‘sensationally good’ three-cheese toastie one to savour

Cult cafe BTB Kirribilli marries old-school favourites with creative use of native produce.

Lee Tran Lam
Lee Tran Lam

BTB Kirribilli was recently named one of the city’s 20 best cafes.
1 / 7BTB Kirribilli was recently named one of the city’s 20 best cafes.Dominic Lorrimer
Potato scallops.
2 / 7Potato scallops.Dominic Lorrimer
Three-cheese toastie with warrigal greens, kimchi and tomato.
3 / 7Three-cheese toastie with warrigal greens, kimchi and tomato.Dominic Lorrimer
Summer salad.
4 / 7Summer salad.Dominic Lorrimer
Bacon and egg roll.
5 / 7Bacon and egg roll.Dominic Lorrimer
Lemon aspen squash.
6 / 7Lemon aspen squash.Dominic Lorrimer
Banana smoothie.
7 / 7Banana smoothie.Dominic Lorrimer

Modern Australian$

If you were after BTB Kirribilli’s history, you could thumb through property records and old floorplans – or you could try the cafe’s excellent potato scallops. They’re battered and fried until they resemble a geological wonder, the ridges and rocky surfaces catching crusty flakes of salt and hiding a welcome reserve of malt vinegar.

The tart tang sharpens your tastebuds and electrifies each crunchy bite. And if this activates childhood memories of stepping into a fish and chip shop, then you’ve hit on this site’s previous incarnation: selling the catch of the day and other seafood staples. It was formerly known as By the Bridge and BTB Kirribilli’s owners, Adam Brcic and Cameron Votano, kept part of the name when they took over in 2017 – as tribute to the old space and their connection to it.

“Cam’s dad used to run a fish and chip shop in this location,” says Brcic. The scallops are a “sneaky” shout-out to BTB Kirribilli’s past life by chef Daniel Backhouse (who previously worked at two-hat restaurant Berowra Waters Inn).

Advertisement
Potato scallops.
Potato scallops.Dominic Lorrimer

This ultra-crunchy dish isn’t the only thing that makes this spot by the Harbour Bridge and Milsons Point station noteworthy. The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide recently named BTB Kirribilli as one of the city’s 20 best cafes, singling out the menu’s inspired use of native ingredients, which are mainly supplied by Indigenous social enterprise Bush to Bowl.

Even the drinks taste like the country’s wide-ranging terrain: there’s wattleseed syrup that sweetens the banana smoothie (in place of conventional cinnamon sprinkles and honey drizzles) and lively lemon aspen in the pub squash (this souring agent will reset the palate of anyone expecting the industrialised sugar hit of supermarket fizz).

These ingredients are a reminder of what the landscape tastes like. The bubbly sarsaparilla, for instance, is flavoured with the plant of the same name. “We grow a native form of it here,” says Brcic.

After a lifetime of throwing soft drinks into shopping trolleys, I’d forgotten that this beverage – like the kola nut that originally powered Coke – actually came from something you could harvest. “Bush to Bowl just sent it to us and said, ‘Hey, we can grow this, is there anything for it?’” says Brcic.

Advertisement

After many experiments, the BTB Kirribilli team created fizzy sarsaparilla. When poured into your glass, the resulting drink has an earthy, medicinal flavour: like many native ingredients, it’s rich in vitamin C and its complexity takes a few sips to get used to. It’s bold and reviving.

There’s a strong Australian accent to everything on the menu: the char of red gum bark intensifies the tomato relish flavouring the bacon and egg roll, the summer salad is plated with cumin and lemon myrtle yoghurt and emu skewers are presented with macadamia satay sauce (light-hoofed native animals are “softer on the environment” than soil-damaging livestock herds, after all).

Although Indigenous ingredients aren’t in every dish, they’re something BTB Kirribilli keenly showcase where possible. This direction was adopted in 2019, with support from Winsome Matthews, a cultural custodian and former chairperson of the NSW Aboriginal Justice Advisory Committee. They’ve also collaborated with her on NAIDOC fundraising dinners at the cafe.

Three-cheese toastie with warrigal greens, kimchi and tomato.
Three-cheese toastie with warrigal greens, kimchi and tomato.Dominic Lorrimer

Sustainability is a strong focus, too: the kimchi is fermented with warrigal greens instead of typical cabbage, because it’s fast growing, native and available all year round. It’s a must in the three-cheese toastie (the sunny yellow mustard pickles and optional tomato slices are also welcome additions).

Advertisement

This sensationally good sandwich is also a telling snapshot of the Australian dining landscape and the many cultures that have contributed to it. Along with Binnorie cheddar from the Hunter Valley and Warrnambool cheese from down south, Marrickville’s Paesanella buffalo mozzarella also oozes from each slice. Paesanella was founded in the 1950s by Italian migrant Umberto Somma, who’d hand-shape mozzarella in his Hawkesbury River shed at 7am and sell it door to door until 11pm.

The other ingredients have long histories, too: kimchi has sustained Koreans for 3000 years, while Indigenous Australians appreciated warrigal greens long before Captain Cook used it to combat scurvy.

You could enjoy the toastie without knowing any of this, but it’s another reason why BTB Kirribilli’s menu is worth savouring.

The low-down

Vibe: This cafe goes beyond the standard-issue menu items and celebrates Indigenous ingredients. Even the avocado is hit with wattleseed dukkah

Cost (average cost for two): About: $40 for two, plus drinks

Continue this series

From prawn toast to potato scallops: 12 of Sydney’s best retro dishes with a new spin
Up next
Chip butty with gravy sauce.

‘So damn good’: The chip butty our reviewer ordered five times in three days

From carb-loaded marvels to the Bradman burger, there’s plenty to lap up at this family-friendly cafe.

The Happiest Meal comprises two hash browns, a “McLovin Muffin” with egg, cheese and chicken sausage, and three pancakes.

This egg-yolk yellow cafe and its ‘Happiest Meal’ is a sunny way to start to the day

The ridiculously popular Happyfield cafe leaves all other joints that don’t take bookings for dead. This naturally begs the question, why?

Previous
The fairy bread ice-cream sandwich.

Darlinghurst’s fun new bar gives childhood classics a grown-up spin. Read this before you waltz in

From fairy bread to loaded Aussie burgers, The Waratah is an ode to Australiana created by an award-winning bartender, with the help of a two-hatted chef.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/clever-aussie-flavours-make-this-sensationally-good-three-cheese-toastie-one-to-savour-20240205-p5f2e5.html