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With a backdrop of Norfolk Island pines shifting in the coastal breeze, and far-stretching views over North Cronulla beach, this all-day eatery nails the relaxed long lunch.

Soft light washes over white wood in the luxe dining room orientated around that million-dollar vista, and with James Metcalfe heading up the kitchen, it’s win after win on a menu that mixes seafood and hefty grills.

Angel hair pasta twirled into a cocoon sits alongside nubs of prawn in an umami loaded XO sauce. Scallop ceviche tangs with citrus and wafer-thin pickled peach, while slow-cooked trout comes in lemongrass broth, topped with tempura lion’s mane mushrooms.

The glass-walled wine room hints that the drinks list means business, housing Grange and well-aged Barolo alongside more everyday drops. Pair that big red with a nicely crusted koji-cured steak, then for afters, go dainty with the prettiest millefeuille and strawberry sorbet.