The Apollo

Fired-up feasting in a Mediterranean standby.

November 11, 2024

1 / 7The oven-baked lamb shoulder with Greek yoghurt.supplied

2 / 7Taramasalata mullet roe dip. Edwina Pickles

3 / 7Loukoumades (honey doughnuts).Edwina Pickles

4 / 7The exterior of The Apollo. Wolter Peeters

5 / 7The main dining room. Christopher Pearce

6 / 7Kritharaki pasta with braised oxtail and tomato skordalia. Edwina Pickles

7 / 7Saganaki cheese with honey and oregano.Christopher Pearce

15/20

Greek$$

Like its namesake god of beauty, light, music and youthful decadence, this modern taverna has a gleam that never fades.

Flickering candles and low lampshades cast flattering light on the buzzing marble and concrete den, while on the plate the classics still reign: golden kefalograviera saganaki sizzles in honey and oregano; slow-roasted lamb shoulder is dolloped with Greek yoghurt; puffy pita is ready to load with tangy taramasalata.

Fan favourites fired over charcoal include whole sardines seasoned with a punchy vinegar and herb combo, and a colossal tomahawk lamb cutlet that’s charred outside and juicy within – a splendid alternative to the shoulder.

Add fluffy, sweet, fried loukoumades with a pistachio sprinkle and a hefty wine list tapping the homeland, and The Apollo is one for the ages.