Sixpenny
The little suburban restaurant that could keeps on rolling.
18/20
Contemporary$$$$
So many of the touches that have made Sixpenny Sixpenny through the years still define it. The corner terrace setting, the sheer curtains, the botanical prints. Then there’s the timeless warmth to a meal here, brought into relief by a drinks list of poise and grace, and the personal tone of the service, which extends to chefs dropping dishes and offering explanations themselves.
If there’s a shift from the early days, though, it’s in the depth of what they’re describing, thanks largely to the role fermentation plays, from an opening, arresting tart filled with koji- and salt-cured trevalla, celeriac and verjuice jelly through to (possibly divisive) salted banana ice-cream with black banana jam.
Between, there are giddying highs: marron glazed with fermented coral trout butter; pork loin brushed with black chickpea paste and roasted; the famed, fabulous raspberry and mead custard dessert. Still Sixpenny? For certain, but the dimensions continue to expand. Clear the schedule.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/sixpenny-20241103-p5kni5.html