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Sixpenny

The little suburban restaurant that could keeps on rolling.

Jerusalem artichoke tart with black truffle.
1 / 5Jerusalem artichoke tart with black truffle.Edwina Pickles.
The dining room.
2 / 5The dining room.Steve Lunam
Murray cod with macadamia and mustard greens.
3 / 5Murray cod with macadamia and mustard greens.Supplied.
Mead vinegar custard with frozen raspberries.
4 / 5Mead vinegar custard with frozen raspberries.Edwina Pickles
Snapper with cucumber and citrus pepper.
5 / 5Snapper with cucumber and citrus pepper.Edwina Pickles

Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Contemporary$$$$

So many of the touches that have made Sixpenny Sixpenny through the years still define it. The corner terrace setting, the sheer curtains, the botanical prints. Then there’s the timeless warmth to a meal here, brought into relief by a drinks list of poise and grace, and the personal tone of the service, which extends to chefs dropping dishes and offering explanations themselves.

If there’s a shift from the early days, though, it’s in the depth of what they’re describing, thanks largely to the role fermentation plays, from an opening, arresting tart filled with koji- and salt-cured trevalla, celeriac and verjuice jelly through to (possibly divisive) salted banana ice-cream with black banana jam.

Between, there are giddying highs: marron glazed with fermented coral trout butter; pork loin brushed with black chickpea paste and roasted; the famed, fabulous raspberry and mead custard dessert. Still Sixpenny? For certain, but the dimensions continue to expand. Clear the schedule.

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Inner West and Western Sydney
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/sixpenny-20241103-p5kni5.html