When Penrith’s beloved Log Cabin Hotel reopened in 2022, locals might have safely expected exactly what the ground floor offers: elevated pub classics, ice cold beers, footy on the screens. But then Sinclair’s, perched upstairs with views over the Nepean River, is another thing. First, there’s the sourcing: Windsor duck breast, Grima Bros celeriac, Schofield Orchard citrus. Then there’s the fit-out, combining luxe finishes, a wood grill and a roll of handwritten specials (tonight: loosely bound corned-beef croquettes, and suckling pig at the chef’s table). Plenty of promise, then. But the kitchen, led by chef Scott Mills, delivers. King prawns grilled to translucence come with lime salsa for freshness and green chilli salsa for heat. Marbled sirloin, nicely crusted over ironbark, is kept in check with a slug of olive oil. Value on the wine list, polish on the floor, finesse on the plate. It’s all here.