Saint Peter
Fish-based fine dining that stands above the rest.
18/20
Seafood$$$$
Chef Josh Niland and his wife Julie relaunched Australia’s most famous fish restaurant on a Paddington backstreet in August, and, well, the new joint is really something.
“Come and enjoy the magic of scale-to-tail cooking across a 12-room boutique hotel and fine diner,” is what the brochure might say. “Let your journey begin with a martini and oysters in the table-service bar, before moving to the elegant dining room.”
Lunch is an a la carte offering of seafood caught by the best fishers in the country; dinner is a seven-course tasting menu. Expect a tart of silky John dory liver pâté with port wine jelly, dry-aged bigeye tuna wrapped, Wellington style, with mushroom duxelles, and pearlescent wood grilled coral trout with a garden of bull kelp and snow pea flowers bolstered by a butter emulsion.
Meanwhile, pastry chef Charlie Hutton’s command of technique is on display in caviar-crowned caneles, and sommelier Houston Barakat’s wine list oscillates between NSW and Piemonte with panache. Much congratulations to our Restaurant of the Year.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/saint-peter-20241103-p5knhr.html