Mimi’s

Scrimp-and-you’ll-miss-it seaside dining by Merivale.

November 11, 2024

1 / 9Mimi’s restaurant at the Coogee Pavilion.Steven Woodburn.

2 / 9Caviar pie, scallop mousseline, citrus butter.Edwina Pickles

4 / 9Potato dumplings, buffalo curd, whey, black truffle.Edwina Pickles

6 / 9Spanner crab, preserved lemon mayo, chives, salted brioche. Edwina Pickles

7 / 9Pici, pipis, warrigal, garlic, chilli urchin bottarga, karkalla.Edwina Pickles

8 / 9Dine kitchen-side to be part of the action.Steve Woodburn

9 / 9Aged whole squab, smoked honey, soft garlic, red chicory. Edwina Pickles

16.5/20

Mediterranean$$$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Something about the sun bouncing off the ocean, the arched windows and all the beautiful people at Mimi’s seems to encourage throwing caution to the wind. Order the $32 martini! Say yes to a caviar bump from the trolley!

But where other restaurants in this price bracket can make you feel like you’re paying for the privilege of simply being there, Mimi’s packs the menu with so many exceptional ingredients that it tips the scales.

There’s the quiet luxury of heritage cucumbers and persimmon on a crudite platter for the ages; castelfranco leaves among a saucy platter of burnished Sommerlad chicken; Zahara olive oil cascading down salted Jersey-milk soft-serve; live seafood.

This isn’t pure produce-core, though: inventive snacks and coral trout “bun cha”, with black-pepper sauce and a mountain of leaves for wrapping, show off the kitchen’s range of talent. And that’s all before you get to the spectacular wine list.