In warmer months, the sun dapples the dining room in flickering gold; in winter, eerie mists swirl from the lake outside. Plush cushions and soft banquettes envelop and cosset; flowers soar above the waiter’s station. It’s luxurious: so succumb and settle in. Evocatively named dish ‘Rivers and Lakes’ is a glorious flurry of techniques and waterway proteins: with verdant salsa verde, there’s delicate smoked trout jelly, fine sashimi of Murray cod, a gleaming yabby and quenelles of eel brandade; puffed pumpernickel crisps for texture. Mains might feature expertly roasted and rested fillet of kangaroo with mountain pepper and sweet heirloom beets and the daring juxtaposition of slow-braised beef rib and translucent, fat bug, revelling in a frisky Asian broth. A quenelle of golden sweetcorn sorbet and tart passionfruit parfait combine with the unexpected aniseed hit of tarragon to create a memorable dessert. Lake House is unique, beautiful and, at 35, at its peak.

And … Pamper yourself – stay the night, book into the spa.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Deluxe country house weekend.
Best bit The tasting menu.
Worst bit You have to go home.