Within cork-popping distance of Parliament, this seductive Melbourne haunt works a timeless European aesthetic, with bustling footpath tables, rich timbers and a floor-to-ceiling wall of bottles. Europe is the focus of the menu, too, with bar snacks of duck liver parfait, salty saganaki, or generous slabs of smoked trout bruschetta. Blackboard menus list heartier mains such as confit duck leg with rib-sticking cassoulet, plus desserts of churros or sauternes creme caramel. Switched-on staff know their stuff, happily guiding diners towards wallet-friendly wines rather than the vintages at the top of the shelf.