The wine wall is epic, exciting and ever-changing at City Wine Shop, catnip to thirsty punters who land at the long bar for a quick drink, but often finish up being fed at the communal table down the back, or at the cheek-by-jowl outside tables. It's a trip, all seamlessly facilitated by sharp, knowledgeable staff. Suave good looks with a warm, European edge extend to the menu. Marinated sardines come paired with vibrant salsa verde. Rustic smoked haddock croquettes and pillowy polenta chips (a menu stalwart) are perfect for sharing while sipping. Mains are more substantial. Thick chicken schnitzel comes with an Italian coleslaw freckled with parsley and radish, and finished with lemon. Orecchiette pasta is tossed through a robust ragu of slow-cooked beef with tomato and shaved parmigiano reggiano. To conclude, a zesty lemon tart served with clotted cream is simply wonderful. Alternatively, cheese, say 50g of stilton or Heidi raclette, seems a fitting finale. With a glass of sticky, of course.