Cecconi charm offers warm, polished service, linen and leather. Ornate light fittings cast a glow over any occasion. Situated close to major city hotels, it’s captured a corporate market and sets some prices accordingly. Cheaper dishes such as pasta reach out to another mainstay, tourists. They might write home about the luxurious seafood flavour of squid-ink ravioli with roasted baby squid, or the unique crisp-yet-gelatinous texture of a special of cotechino where pork skin, poaching and frying make this northern Italian sausage a statement entree. Less emphatic, but pleasant, are caramelised scallops with a pomegranate molasses treatment. Spices such as star anise and clove blend beautifully into twice-cooked duck with kipfler potatoes. A scarcity of greens in the poultry and steak mains may necessitate ordering side dishes such as beans with marinated feta and toasted almonds. Desserts let loose with joyous tastes such as pistachio custard, white-chocolate mint ganache and apricot parfait.

And … The more casual bar-side dining area opens from 7.30am for breakfast and continues into the night.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Let’s close this deal over a good red.
Best bit Magnificent lamps embossed like ceiling roses.
Worst bit The waiters’ birthday serenade.