As Melbourne cafes push into restaurant territory with creative menus, polished service and even cocktails, some venues are extending to evening hours as well. Nine months after opening as a daytime cafe, Westgarth corner venue Ophelia today launches its first dinner service and will open three nights a week.

“We want to offer this space to the community, and they’re telling us they want nights,” says co-owner Kieran Spiteri.

“We’ve always loved the idea of a place that shifts gears as the moon comes up. People can have a snack and drink at the bar or book in and have the whole restaurant experience.”

In Windsor, Oppen expanded to nights last winter after six years of serving Scandi open sandwiches. Chef Zume Pham finds that there’s plenty of crossover in their day and night customers.

“People who got used to us as a cafe now come at nighttime,” he says. “Some come for dinner, then come back to discover what Scandinavian brunch is all about.”

Spiteri is a restaurant guy from way back, having worked at London’s Soho House and Taxi Dining Room at Federation Square. But, after 10 years in cafes, he has some jitters about opening Ophelia after dark.

Luckily, new chef Mitchell Velo brings experience from Trader House venues Cumulus and Marion, plus Milton Wine Bar. Heidi Modra, who recently sold Pinotta restaurant in Fitzroy North, will lead service.

“And this room looks beautiful at night,” says Spiteri. “We’re giving Ophelia more purpose and rounding out what it is meant to be.”

Five cafes now doing dinner

Ophelia

Tuesday night’s $20 pasta ties into $12 movie tickets at Westgarth Cinema next door. “We want people to experience a nice night out for $32,” says co-owner Spiteri. Fridays and Saturdays are about extending the daytime mood long into the evening with snacks and a roster of DJs plundering the huge wall of vinyl. Even daytime customers will benefit from the extended offering. An enhanced dessert offering means lemon tart at any hour and, Spiteri says, “there might be dishes we plate up at night but serve on toast or with an egg during the day.”

Open nights Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays. 85 High Street, Northcote, opheliawestgarth.com.au

Malcolm Corner

Eddy Tjandra’s Japanese cafe recently started opening weeknights, serving the same locals who come during the day. “Most of my customers are regulars, living in apartments nearby, and I want this to be a second home for them, whether they’re studying or working.” Rice bowls and noodles are all under $20, with the udon selling well on cool nights. People order matcha well into the evening, especially if they’re studying. “We have a relaxed atmosphere with board games and chill music,” says Tjandra.

Open nights Monday to Friday. 23 Malcolm Street, South Yarra, instagram.com/malcolmcorner

Oppen by Night

With its candlelight, glowing lamps and flowing curtains, Oppen easily shifts from day to night. On Thursdays, try the $25 special of steak on carbonara, which started as an insider favourite. “I made it for a staff meal and it was so great we put it on the menu,” says chef Zume Pham. “The creaminess of the carbonara with smoky bacon plus the steak is a balanced, hearty comfort meal.” You can also get the pasta on its own – one of three on offer – alongside wine bar-style plates designed to share.

Open nights Thursday to Saturday. 20/2 Maddock Street, Windsor, oppen.com.au

Palette at Night

“Melbourne needs spaces where people can chill with friends at night without alcohol,” says owner John Han. While his Korean cafe, Palette, is big on sandwiches and fries, Palette at Night does desserts such as croffles (croissants pressed in a waffle maker) and honey toast with whipped cream. “It’s cosy and warm with candles and campfire aromas,” says Han, noting that it’s a great place for a booze-free first date. Nighttime staffing costs and no alcohol sales make breaking even a challenge though – margins are higher on liquor. But it hasn’t hampered creativity. From the specialty drinks, try the sesame demi creme, a latte topped with black sesame cream.

Open nights Monday to Sunday. 610 Queensberry Street, North Melbourne, palettemelbourne.square.site

Moon Mart

Once a month, the petite Korean cafe swaps sandos and rice bowls for three-course “hanjeongsik” meals ($120), centred around a main course with multiple banchan (side dishes). “This is the Korean soul food I’ve always wanted to do,” says chef and co-owner Eun Hee An. “I thought if I don’t do it now, I’ll never do it.” Her business partner Mei Onsamlee jumped on board, as did friend Jun Chen, who made 160 pieces of ceramic dinnerware in a month. The first one was in May. “It was a bit of a struggle, regret and joy mixed together, but as soon as I woke up the next day I started thinking about the next one,” says Eun. June 26 is sold out; follow Instagram for future dates.

Monthly dinners in the last week of each month. 315 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne, moonmart.com.au