A candidate for Brisbane's most atmospheric and elegant dining room (and an astounding creation for a Brisbane chain hotel); from its glass-topped tables, pendant lamps and chain-mesh curtain to a stunning backdrop of Anzac Square and the city lights, Prive 249 shows some serious designer input and is a fitting venue for the rest of the show. And what a show it is: five entrees, five mains and four desserts with not a dud course in sight. There is decadence in the likes of foie gras with parmesan custard truffle and chestnut, or thick-cut fillet of wagyu with the earthy fragrance of girolle mushrooms and a slippery button of marrow. And there is freshness and restraint: delicate wafers of hiramasa kingfish accented with caviar or herbed baby vegetables - tender, tiny and sweet cut through with a honey vinaigrette. A petit selection of slick desserts doesn't let down the side either. This is clever, ultra-contemporary food with immaculate presentation backed by detailed service and a sizeable list of wines. Hard to believe it's in a hotel.