Even when it's full house in 221's bright, buzzy dining-room - part of the Royal Oak Hotel - the view through to the kitchen shows the same orderliness that manifests in its well-timed, artistically presented dishes. Kitchen skills go on show in house-baked crusty sourdough, hand-rolled pasta and an elegant Viennese coffee tart for dessert. An attractive sashimi tasting plate, with a trio of fresh tuna, salmon and kingfish, is simple and fresh, while seared Atlantic sea scallops with cauliflower puree and jamon iberico satisfies, but lacked sea-fresh firmness. Main meal portion sizes are as generous as the Hunter Valley hospitality in this cheery pub restaurant. Expert hands make salt-and-pepper tempura for a small pile of garfish, but dry flesh disappointed. Plump king prawns and diamond clams are paired with well-made saffron pappardelle; brace for strong flavours, including capers, pea shoots and lime. And pizzas, bound for diners at the bars, are hijack-worthy.