Lay out the boned leg of lamb and season with salt and pepper. Scatter over a little of the chopped rosemary, then roll up the leg and secure with string.

Heat the pot, then brown the lamb all over in the oil.

Cut the onion, celery and carrot into large pieces and add them to the pot with the butter. Cook, stirring until the vegetables are lightly golden brown. Add the garlic, bay leaves and remaining rosemary, some salt and pepper and a good splash of wine.

Turn down the heat so the wine is just bubbling, but not boiling. Cover with a lid slightly askew.

Always keep an inch of liquid in the pot with regular top-ups of wine. Turn the meat occasionally. Cook for about an hour, or until very tender.

May be cooked in advance and reheated carefully - just keep an eye on the amount of liquid.

To serve 

Delicious with sauteed spinach or stewed red peppers.