As Punch Lane nears its twentieth anniversary it's been reinvigorated by new appointments: chef Luke Croston, (formerly at Reserve, and Restaurant Serge Vieira in France), and Simon Denman as sommelier. The room remains intimate and dim, with dark timber finishes, red leather chairs and plump cushions. Theatre-goers flock for fresh, modern flavours that can go the traditional entree-main route or present as share-plates. Snacks of prawn bonbons (rolled in brik pastry, then fried) with chilli and lime salt, and cheese fritters (like croquettes) make excellent drinking companions. Starters of pork rillettes and discs of coppa with bitter leaves and pistachios, and spanner crab with confit tomatoes and pickled yellow beetroot are as attractive on the plate as the palate. A dish of herb-crusted John Dory fillets on braised capsicum and chorizo balances delicate and bold flavours, as does tender sirloin and braised beef cheek with rainbow chard and blood plums. Playful desserts might include an airy chocolate mousse with tart poached rhubarb and lime curd.