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There are dishes at this revamped boozer that wouldn’t be out of place on some tasting menus around town for double the price. A “millefeuille” featuring layers of finely peeled and rolled beetroot lifted with native thyme oil. Butter-poached marron laid across creamed corn risotto and a commanding sauce made from the crayfish’s head. Clean, sweet toothfish covered in a kombu-enhanced squid-ink glaze.

The kitchen knows his way around wagyu too, whether it’s tri-tip bolstered by chestnut mushroom sabayon, or a fully loaded steak and smoked-tomato sandwich from the upstairs bar menu.

Meanwhile, our service excellence winner Maureen Er leads a well-rehearsed floor team, and the drinks list is banger on all fronts.

Add reclaimed oak tables, soft-textured walls and woven leather chairs and we’re not sure the joint can still be called a “pub”, but whatever the White Horse has become, we like it a lot.