Poodle Bar & Bistro

Ostentatious and wickedly smart.

November 18, 2024

2 / 9Staff prepare the dining room.Paul Jeffers

3 / 9Caviar crumpets are a speciality.Supplied

5 / 9A green marble bar dominates the entry.Supplied

6 / 9Baked oysters a la Poodle.Paul Jeffers

7 / 9Profiteroles with spanner crab and cod roe.Paul Jeffers

8 / 9Chargrilled duck hearts wrapped in guanciale.Paul Jeffers

9 / 9Hapuka fillet with greens and buttery leek chimichurri.Paul Jeffers

15/20

Contemporary$$

Designed to invoke the OTT steak-and-martini energy of iconic Parisian and New York bistros, Poodle has transcended imitation and entered the canon. The no-expense-spared fitout is an embarrassment of marble, terrazzo, soaring arches and plush banquettes.

Elevated riffs on retro staples show equal respect for kitsch and quality: martinis chilled to oily viscosity, devilled eggs with caviar, crab-stuffed vol au vent. A deep, flavour-rich hanger steak comes with properly crisped frites and well-dressed greens. Chewy rye bread gets smoky oomph from spent coffee and arrives with kefir butter, all cultured tang.

White miso boosts scallops. Mandarin oil flips the switch on oysters mignonette. What more do you need? A courtyard for summer schmoozing? A dedicated cocktail bar? Chocolate mousse with a glace cherry on top? Done, done and done.