NewsBite

Advertisement

‘This place is a vibe’ but wildly popular Fitzroy restaurant Poodle isn’t for everyone

Poodle Bar & Bistro has all the energy of another restaurant’s Friday night on a Tuesday. But how does the service and food under a new chef stack up?

Besha Rodell

The go-to dish: chargrilled duck hearts wrapped in guanciale.
1 / 8The go-to dish: chargrilled duck hearts wrapped in guanciale.Paul Jeffers
Baked oysters a la Poodle are a riff on oysters Rockefeller.
2 / 8Baked oysters a la Poodle are a riff on oysters Rockefeller.Paul Jeffers
Profiteroles come bursting with spanner crab and creamy cod roe.
3 / 8Profiteroles come bursting with spanner crab and creamy cod roe.Paul Jeffers
Hapuka fillet served with bitter greens and buttery leek chimichurri.
4 / 8Hapuka fillet served with bitter greens and buttery leek chimichurri.Paul Jeffers
Horseshoe-shaped leather banquettes, dim lighting and dark wooden fittings give Poodle a sultry air.
5 / 8Horseshoe-shaped leather banquettes, dim lighting and dark wooden fittings give Poodle a sultry air.Paul Jeffers
Staff prepare the dining room for action at Poodle Bar & Bistro
6 / 8Staff prepare the dining room for action at Poodle Bar & BistroPaul Jeffers
A green marble bar dominates the ground floor entry area.
7 / 8A green marble bar dominates the ground floor entry area.
Poodle Bar & Bistro’s second-floor bar.
8 / 8Poodle Bar & Bistro’s second-floor bar.

14.5/20

Contemporary$$

On a Tuesday night, Poodle Bar & Bistro has all the energy of another restaurant’s Friday night. The people tucked into the caramel-coloured leather banquettes are dressed to kill; the dim light splayed across the dark wooden fittings and sage and cream chequerboard floors and arched windows looking out to Gertrude Street is downright sexy. Bottles pop, martinis are sipped, laughter echoes through the chatter. This place is a vibe.

Poodle is one of those restaurants that tends to be divisive – people either love it or hate it. “It makes me feel old,” said one friend, who isn’t that old. My sister wandered in there without a booking for an impromptu date night a few weeks back, ate “one of the best steaks I’ve had”, and came away raving.

I’ve heard complaints about the consistency of the food from folks whose opinions I trust, while others, just as trustworthy, declare it their favourite spot in town. “It has all the energy of a CBD restaurant without having to go into the city,” a colleague said. Indeed, everyone agrees on that vibe aspect, although some would obviously prefer something less vibey.

Advertisement

Given all these mixed messages, plus a new head chef, I figured it was worth going a few rounds with Poodle myself. What I found was consistently excellent service – even when I was looking my most non-vibey and haggard – and less consistent but occasionally excellent cooking.

Since opening in 2020, Poodle’s kitchen had been led by Josh Fry. But recently, Emma Dawson has been promoted from sous-chef into the lead role. In the February media release announcing Dawson’s promotion, she was said to be inspired by the simplicity of restaurants like St. John in London: “No elaborate garnishes, over-seasoned sauces or surplus of ingredients required.”

Profiteroles come bursting with spanner crab and creamy cod roe.
Profiteroles come bursting with spanner crab and creamy cod roe.Paul Jeffers

This is not how I’d describe the cooking at Poodle. In fact, some of its greatest hits are its most over-the-top fripperies. A profiterole ($11) comes bursting with spanner crab and creamy cod roe, a ridiculous smoosh of salty, fishy, gooey indulgence. Fried peppers ($24) are all over the place, getting a tonne of acid from pickled green tomatoes and a hit of nutty creaminess from a sesame paste underneath. It makes no sense, but it works fabulously. A 250-gram beef scotch fillet ($51) gets not only pepper sauce and a shower of potato straws, but also a generous layer of Roquefort, giving the steak a thwack of funk that I adored, but I can see the steak purist wishing for a little more restraint.

And there are dishes that could definitely use a modicum of restraint – the sweetness and purity of raw scallops ($10 each) was overwhelmed by its accompaniment of white miso and caviar. The addition of horseradish to the baked oysters a la Poodle ($7 each) – basically a riff on Rockefeller – made for an oddly bitter bite.

Advertisement
It’s a relief, honestly, in this world of wonky service, to come across a place that is so on-point.

Simplicity, when it is deployed, is stunningly successful. Duck hearts ($10) are wrapped in guanciale, skewered, and grilled to a bouncy, bloody crisp, the fat of the pig coating the hearts for a deeply satisfying snack. Baked camembert ($28) is layered with leatherwood honey then heated to a pleasing goo, and served with sweet nubs of Jerusalem artichokes and crostini – the game is to turn the cheese into a fondue, and it’s a game I’d play any day.

The fish of the day recently has been hapuka ($45), served with bitter greens in a pool of butter shot through with leek chimichurri. This is the type of thing I think Dawson envisioned when she evoked the cooking of St. John – decadent but somehow pure, full of flavour without trying too hard. When she hits that stride exactly right, it’s a thing to behold.

Hapuka fillet served with bitter greens and buttery leek chimichurri.
Hapuka fillet served with bitter greens and buttery leek chimichurri.Paul Jeffers

About that service: This place gets absolutely rammed, and there are times when servers are stretched to their maximum. But managers and hosts jump in, and you can tell this place operates as a true team. Everyone is knowledgeable; everyone is charming. It’s a relief, honestly, in this world of wonky service, to come across a place that is so on-point.

Advertisement

So, listen, Poodle might not be for you. Which is OK. All restaurants are not for all people. But it’s fun, and exuberant, and unapologetic about its exuberance. Dawson is an exciting young chef, and I’m looking forward to what she’s got up her sleeve in years to come. And if you’re searching for a place to deliver those sweet Friday night vibes on a Tuesday, this is your place.

The low-down

Vibe: Sexy Fitzroy bistro 

Go-to dish Duck heart skewer, $10

Drinks: Creative cocktails, including a list of martinis; nice wine list with strong Australian and French selections

Continue this series

Melbourne hit list September 2023: Hot, new and just-reviewed places to check out, right now
Up next
Agnolotti filled with Moreton Bay bug meat and served with a lobster bisque and butter sauce at Little Black Pig & Sons.

Little Black Pig & Sons is the sort of Italian local that will please everyone’s inner nonna

Inside us all there’s a headscarf-clad nonna with firm opinions on food. And she would approve of this hardworking suburban bistro.

Big windows, a red vaulted ceiling and white floorboards give French Saloon a timeless quality.

A hearty welcome back to one of our all-time Melbourne favourites, French Saloon

Operating as an events space since 2021, this distinctly Melbourne restaurant is back, and it’s as good as ever.

Previous
See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Default avatarBesha Rodell is the anonymous chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/fun-and-exuberant-or-over-the-top-poodle-bar-and-bistro-divides-and-conquers-20230816-p5dx3a.html