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Behind a garage door, nestled between breweries and poultry wholesalers, is this cosy converted-warehouse restaurant that delivers a mash-up of cuisines. Fringed lamps, Persian rugs and tables covered in lace or plastic take cues from the homes of the co-owners’ Lebanese, Macedonian and Greek families, while the food melds cultures and skews tradition.

Pink taramasalata piped onto shokupan toast with pickled cucumber, bottarga and sesame, for instance, and tangy house-made yoghurt dolloped over chickpeas, pita crumbs and a shockingly green garlic-chive oil.

Barbecued heritage-breed Sommerlad chicken comes to the table fresh off the flames, burnished with a sticky garlicky, caramelised glaze, best paired with curried potato salad capped with briny fried capers.

Finish strong with spongy semolina cake soaked in hibiscus syrup, plus a round of rajika for a group toast to Baba.